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Svalbard is approx. 62 050 sq. km (23,957 sq. miles), whereas 60 per cent is covered by glaciers. The largest islands are Spitsbergen (39 000 sq. km / 15,058 sq. miles), North East Land (14 600 sq. km / 5,637 sq. miles) and Edge Island (5 000 sq. km / 1,930 sq. miles). In addition there are about 150 smaller islands. The archipelagos highest peaks is Newtontoppen and Perriertoppen – both raging 1 717 m (5,633 feet) above sea level. Geologically, Svalbard consists of rocks from all major periods of the earths history.
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First recorded sighting of Svalbard is found in Icelandic books from 1194. In 1596 a Dutch whaling boat rediscovered it, and the first wintering was in 1630. Permanent mining settlements was established in 1906, and Svalbard became Norwegian territory under the Spitsbergen Treaty of 1920. Large occurrence of coal was found, and mining started around 1900. Several serious mining accidents lead to Cabinet crisis in 1963, and the mines were shut down.
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Svalbard isn't exactly crowded: Longyearbyen, the Norwegian administrative center, has approx. 1 400 inhabitants, Barentsburg, a Russian mining community, has approx. 850 inhabitants, Ny-Ålesund, a Norwegian international research center has approx. 40-100 inhabitants, Sveagruva, a Norwegian mining
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community has approx. 90 commuters, and Hornsund, a Polish research station, has approx. 8 inhabitants. In 1997, a center for space research and a launch site for research rockets were opened. There are no roads connecting the communities on Svalbard.
There have only been settlements on Svalbard for relatively few years, but the group of islands still have an exciting and rich history. Traces after whale hunters, trappers, expeditions and even industrial activity is well preserved in this Arctic climate. All historical sites originating from 1945 or earlier are protected. This applies both to fixed sites such as old building foundations, graves, standing buildings and any other type of fixed facility, as well as any movable historical artifacts
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Despite Svalbard being so close to the North Pole, the archipelago has a relatively mild climate compared to areas at the same latitude. In Longyearbyen, the average temperature ranges from -14 degrees C (7 deg. F) during the winter to +6 degrees C (43 deg. F) during the summer. In wintertime, long periods with temperatures between –20 and –30 degrees C (-4 to - 22 deg. F) is
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not uncommon, and wind-chill factors usually seriously compounds the cooling effect of the low temperatures. The weather on Svalbard can shift very quickly and local variations are often considerable.
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The nature is wild and beautiful, but at the same time very fragile. Flora and fauna have adapted to the difficult Arctic conditions, but even minor encroachments can cause lasting damage. All travel and other activities take place on nature's terms, and special environmental regulations have been developed for Svalbard.
On all of Svalbard there is permafrost, with only the top meter of earth thawing during
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the summer. The flora is subject to a very short growing season, low temperatures, lack of precipitation and a relatively barren ground soil. Any type of vegetation covers only 6-7 per cent of the land area, and the most fertile areas are found in the inner fjord regions of Spitsbergen. In all of Svalbard there are around 165 species of plants, and great care must be taken to avoid causing any damage, as the destruction of vegetation may leave lasting traces in the landscape.
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Almost 60 per cent of Svalbard is classified as either nature reserve, national park, bird sanctuary or a sanctuary for flora. The rules protecting and governing these areas vary somewhat, but there is a general prohibition against any and all technical or industrial encroachments. All vegetation in the designated sanctuaries is protected. Animals and birds are specially adapted to the challenging Arctic living conditions, and they are all protected from hunting, trapping, injuring, killing or any kind of disturbance.
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With populations up to several hundred thousand birds, some of the largest concentrations of birds in the North Atlantic region can be found on Svalbard. In all, around 30 bird species nest there.
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The polar bear is considered a maritime mammal as it spends most of its life on the drifting pack ice. A large number, however, can be found on the islands east of Spitsbergen, yet you should be prepared to encounter a polar bear wherever you are on Svalbard.
The Svalbard reindeer and Arctic fox also call Svalbard their home, and are found on most of the islands. A species of mouse has found its way to the Isfjord area, most likely as stowaways on boats.
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In addition to the most common seal species, the ringed seal, there are several other species of seal around Svalbard, including the bearded seal, the common harbor seal and the walrus. The Beluga whale is the most common whale species frequenting the coast of Svalbard.
The rich nutrients found in the Barents Sea are the key source of sustenance for most of the animals living on
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Svalbard. The Gulf Stream, bringing a potent mix of warm and cold water, relatively shallow waters and round-the-clock sunshine allows this polar ocean region to be so tremendously productive during the summer.
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For many who visit Svalbard it is the Arctic light that is the most impressive – whether experienced on a clear polar night with sparkling stars and dancing Northern Lights, or on a snow-covered April landscape bathed in the midnight sun.
Midwinter darkness isn't pitch black - the moon and stars
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seem supernaturally bright, illuminating snow-covered mountains and plains in a ghostly glow.
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By the end of October, the sun has cast its final rays for the year over the landscape and Svalbard enters into a period of darkness. For more than two months, from the end of November to the beginning of February, there is darkness round the clock. At the end of February the polar night gives way to the rising sun, inching higher and higher for each passing day.
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On a clear day, the sky's many blue hues blend with a shade of pink – and finally the day comes when the first pink rays from the sun touch the mountain peaks.
After starting at the top, the sun gradually makes its way down the valley. This is the time of year to experience a uniquely warm and intimate atmosphere found nowhere else on earth.
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